It's blazer build time! My husband is the mastermind behind all of the rigs. He is quite brilliant honestly. This particular build is very special. It is the first build our Buddy will be helping with, and helping he is! This Blazer Build started life out as a 89' K5 Chevy Blazer. Now, when we took ownership of this guy, it was built a little but in sad shape. Sure, it looked cool on the outside but once we tore into it, not so much.
First thing, he dove nosed the front end taking 20" out of the front grill. The farther in, he's been finding more and more projects. Right away when taking the fenders off, he noticed the radiator and heater core where leaking. He was able to repair the radiator. When he got into the dash for the heater core he found a mess of wiring and some broken heater control parts. Then he noticed the dash was half unbolted. He put in the new heater core, fixed and replaced all the bad and crummy wiring, and bolted the entire dash back up.
As far as the front clip. It was pretty easy to cut up the radiator support and the grill. He did make a few pieces to hold everything together however, he couldn't find the correct Chevy bowtie emblem to fit the grill. Therefore, we went with an Autobot emblem instead. Yeah buddy!
Enjoy the pictures. And remember, this is an on going build so be sure to check in for new updates.
The only way the cluster would fit is with the backside notched out. but that in turn left me without the volt meter and a dash light at this point.
So with the original wiring sheet out of the way, he ran in some new wires to the volt meter and drilled out a new spot for a dash light.
He made a bunch of little tabs and brackets to hold the grill back together and look factory-ish.
He took some sheet metal and riveted it in to hold the sides together. There are two mounting points for the headlight bezels that he needed to hold it all together. Eventually it all got painted black.
Well you might not say the blazer is old but it is past the 25 year mark for classic! The hood got cut down today.
Today was a little interesting. He wanted to do the Polyurethane body mounts we picked up for the blazer. But, while the Buddy was helping remove the rest of the carpet, they ended up finding a hefty amount of cancer on the rear of the floor and pan. At first my Lover thought he could repair it. However, after cutting into it a little ways, he decided to order the replacement parts from LMC truck. We discovered that if we had an unlimited budget we could buy an entirely new blazer from LMC. They have everything for this ole hog!
He was able to get the new body mounts on with new bolts but it didn't happen easily. Tools needed for today's "extra special" body mount bolts/plates removal were: impact, grinder, air chisel, torch, pipe wrench, pry bars, pliers and the usual sockets/wrenches. Needless to say they were extremely rusted. Yikes!
Those bolts were getting a little thin.
Outside of it flurrying snow off and on today, it wasn't too bad of a day. He sure wishes our garage was about 5' taller with a 12' door though. Since we have been waiting on parts to finish the rear cab, we decided to start on the rear suspension. Changing the rear to a DIY4X reverse shackle getting rid of the 6" lift-52" long springs. Decided on some new old stock 2" lift- 56" long springs that we bought from Jeepurz. They were a reasonable price.
The old springs are still in good shape but definitely need new bushings
I'm not sure how everyone else cuts off rivets but the easiest way they found is to take a cutoff wheel and chop a "cross" into the rivet, take the awesome MAC air chisel and cut the heads off with a flat end. Then pop them thru the frame with a pointed end. The whole process only took a couple minutes. One to two minutes to cut the crosses, one minute to chisel them off and pop them thru the frame. He'd done it with a torch before but is not really a fan of a fiery hot rivet flying thru the air when they get popped thru the frame.
When you're working outside and don't own a car lift, this is the safest-unsafe way to lift the rear end up high enough to take the rear suspension out.
DIY4X really makes this process easy. They made the hanger brackets offset so that all the guesswork is already done for you. If we wanted to stay with 52" springs my Lover would have just had to flip the hanger around to the other side of the frame.
The difference in length and lack of arch should really help the ride.
The Kit came with the bolts, nuts welded on plates for the inside of the frame, shackles, and bushings.
This also ended up stretching the rear axle back 1" to give the K5 a 107" wheelbase. Basically it re-centered the rear end with the fender well.
Stay tuned guys, he is currently working on some more rust repair and rock sliders. Post update will be soon.